Traversing Myths: The Legendary Nagraj Trail from Southern Part of Kathmandu Valley to Panauti

A trail stepped in mythological stories stretching from the southern part of Kathmandu Valley to Panauti, the Nagraj Trail is unlike any other. Traversing more than 42 km passing through wetlands, farms, forests, picturesque settlement and more the trail is a symbol of our rich cultural heritage. Every year, Basuki Naag, the serpent god and protector of Panauti is known to attend Jya:Punhi or the Panauti Jatra. The festivities center around Jestha Poornima or the full moon in Jestha, the second month in Nepali calendar. So, what is the connection of Basuki Naag with the Nagraj Trail? Let’s find out!

The tale traces its origin from the Ramayana saga. It is said that Indra was attracted to Ahalya, daughter of Lord Brahma.  Ahalya was known for her beauty which attracted many deities who soon started fighting for her. But Brahma did not like this because of their lustful thoughts. A challenge was set: whoever could complete the fastest circumnavigation of the earth would win the right to marry Ahalya. The challenge was accepted, and sage Gautama prayed to Lord Shiva to seek support. Lord Shiva appeared in front of him and said if he really wished to win, he could circumambulate his form which was equal to rotating the earth. Gautama circumambulated a Shiv Saligram (fossilized ammonite considered a form of Shiva) and he was declared the winner. He married Ahalya and settled in Panauti. One day, Indra took the form of Gautama and had his way with Ahalya. Gautama was furious and cursed Indra that his entire body be covered with yonis (female genetalia) and Ahalya was cursed to be turned into stone. After the curse, Lord Indra sought help of Guru Brihaspati who suggested he meditate for 12 years in the name of Mukeshwor Mahadev. So, Indra and his wife Sachi meditated for 12 years and at the end of the meditation, Mahadev appeared and directed Indra to stick a dried bamboo on the ground and wherever a bud would grow would be a place that would set him free. And Goddess Parvati appeared to Sachi in the form of Rudrawoti River and created a confluence of Punyawati and Lilawoti or Roshi. This holy confluence of the three rivers is called Triveni Ghat. Right when Indra reached the confluence, the stick grew a small bud, and he bathed in the holy water to absolve his sins. This holy union is also known as Uttar Prayag and every 12 years a huge festival called Makar Mela is celebrated here. Indra built a statue of Mahadev from the miraculous stone where the bud grew and hence the temple is named Indreshwor Mahadev.

Lord Indra entrusted the protection of Panauti to Basuki Naag but his presence would soon be crucial in the southern part of Kathmandu Valley. Rato Machindranath is the embodiment of rain god of Kathmandu Valley who was brought from Assam in India to rid Kathmandu Valley of drought. It is said that Sage Gorakhnath took offence by the disrespect of the residents of Kathmandu Valley, and he retreated into meditation capturing the rain bringing Nagas. The only way to make Gorakhnath break his meditation was to bring Rato Machindranath, his teacher. His presence would prompt Gorakhnath to get up to pay his respects which would free the Nagas. The mission was completed by revered royal tantric priest from Kathmandu, Bandudatta; a humble farmer from Lalitpur, Lalit; and king of Bhaktapur, King Narendra Deva. Sage Gorakhnath halted his meditation to greet his teacher, and the serpents escaped pouring life-giving rain in Kathmandu Valley. The trio requested Rato Machindranath to stay in Kathmandu Valley, but Rato Machindranath had a condition, he would only stay here if Basuki Naag stayed under his feet. Priest Bandudatta then made his way to Panauti and found Basuki Naag in human guise but could be distinguished as he was a head taller than the others. To entice Basuki Naag to come with him, he asked him to show his prowess in the different forms and shapes he could take, namely how big or small he could be. Basuki Naag manifested and showed his largest form. He made three rounds of Dalinchowk, also known as Gorakhnath ridge all the while placing his head on the gajur (spier) of Brahmayani temple. Bandudatta asked again to show the smallest form that Basuki Naag could take. Basuki Naag then entered the kamandalu (a type of water pot) that Bandhudatta was carrying. Right then Bandudatta closed the lid and started to make way towards Patan. Bandudatta then presented Basuki Naag to Rato Machindranath and apologized to Basuki for his actions. Basuki Naag agreed to stay with Rato Machindranath but on the condition that he could visit Panauti during festivities and the residents of Panauti would also be freely allowed to visit him.

 

Basuki Naag showcasing his powers in the largest form he can take

This festivity comes every year in the form of Panauti Jatra. The arrival of Basuki Naag is signified by massive whirlwind blowing over fields and gardens of the Nagraj Trail causing the maize to incline in the east. Basuki Naag’s residence being Bungamati a trail follows connecting Nagdaha, Godawari and finally connecting to Panauti. This trail passes many wetlands, farms, and forests.

So, what is this festivity? The festivity is a celebration of many important events in Panauti such as chariot processions, mating ritual, and worship of Brahmayani along with other gods and goddess. It lasts for nine days:

  • Day 1 coincides with Sithi Nakha (a festival of cleaning water sources) and till Day 3, the town is cleaned and prepared for the celebrations ahead and Hindu priests called Achhanju make offerings to the Tantric deities.
  • On Day 4 a festival called ‘Duin-ca–nya-ya-ke-gu’ is held. Here a priest, a woman, and a porter cross the bridge over Punyamata river to make tantric offerings to Goddess Brahmayani along with Goddess Bhadrakali. The bridge is known to be formed by Basuki as legend has it that once during heavy flooding, Basuki Naag came for help and laid over Punyamata River forming a bridge which enabled the worship to take place.
  • On Day 5, the people celebrate ‘mu-jatra’. During this day chariot procession is carried from the bank of Punyawati to Roshi to carry the palanquin for processions of different Gods the next day.
  • On Day 6 known as Panauti Punhi, devotees take a dip at Triveni ghat which is known to absolve sins and diseases. Initially, Brahmayani is charioted and routed round the town and taken to the courtyard of Layaku Durbar (Palace). Then the idols of Bhadrakali as well as of Bhairav and Mahadev are placed in the respective chariots and routed. The chariot of Bhairav and Bhadrakali and later the chariot of Mahadev and Bhadrakali are collided three times each as a mark of sexual intercourse between the gods and goddesses.
  • The rest of the days are spent with relatives and deities are placed in their respective shrines.

After the completion of these festivities, Basuki Naag makes his way to Patan again. The movement is indicated by the bent trees and plants standing upright again. On his way, he is again known to pass by Nagdaha. The locals believe Nagdaha is home to his queen consort. Their union is known to result in heavy rain.

So, the story so far connects Bungamati to Panauti but why does the trail begin from Taudaha? The festival mentioned earlier, the Makar Mela festival , happening every 12 years in Panauti is the reason behind this. As this festivity is worship of Mahadev, Naag from Taudaha, Karkotak Naag along with Basuki Naag are known to attend. They journey from Taudaha passing Khokana, Bungamati from where Basuki joins, Godawari, Lakuri Bhanjyang to finally reach Panauti to worship Lord Shiva. This connects to the earlier story of Lord Indra and a dip in Triveni Ghat, a holy confluence of three rivers is known to purify people from sins.

Let’s explore the Nagraj Trail for ourselves! Explore the different photos from our adventures as the trail passed through wetlands, forests, farms, settlements, and more

Bibliography:

Onlinekhabar. (2022). Everything you need to know about Panauti’s Makar Mela happening now after 12 years—OnlineKhabar English News. https://english.onlinekhabar.com/panauti-makar-mela-explained.html

Pant, S. B. (2020). The Ancient Town of Panauti and its Heritage. Mandalas Life. Retrieved from https://mandalas.life/2022/the-ancient-town-of-panauti-and-its-heritage/

Pant, S. B. (2024). The Legendary Tale of Rato Machindranath Jatra. Inside Himalayas. Retrieved from https://www.insidehimalayas.com/the-legendary-tale-of-rato-machindranath-jatra/

Ranjitkar, S. B. (2015). Panauti Jatra | Mero-Bhakal. http://bhakal.com/wp/panauti-jatra/

Read Nepal. (2014). The Story of Panauti. UNESCO Digital Library. Retrieved from https://unesdoc.unesco.org/ark:/48223/pf0000245046

Toffin, G. (2022). The Religious City of Panauti Makar Mela. Panauti Municipality.

TRN. (2023). Importance Of Panauti Jatra. GorakhaPatra. Retrieved from https://risingnepaldaily.com/news/2757

Acknowledgement:

We extend our gratitude to Sustainability Accelerator microgrants by Chatham House which financed the mapping and inquiry of Nagraj Trail. We are deeply grateful to our team members: Anu Rai for her dedicated work on the write-up and trail mapping; Kevin Bajracharya for his efforts in mapping the trail and managing the social media aspects of this story; and Samrathang Palunwa for his creative artistic representation of the story. We are also greatly appreciative of Mr. Prashant Shrestha, photographer and resident of Panauti and priest Shiva Giri from Nagdaha who shared important stories related to Nagraj Trail.